Travel Guide: Amalfi, Positano, and Ravello (Amalfi Coast, Italy)
Positano, Italy
What. A. Place.
If the neon teal beaches, colorful flowers, and towering cliffs don’t speak for themselves — the Amalfi coast is hands down one of the prettiest places in the world. Mix the deep Italian culture with tropical plants and hearty food, and it’s pretty easy to say it doesn’t get much better than that.
We spent three nights on the Amalfi Coast, in the town of Amalfi specifically. We flew into the Naples airport and took a pre-organized car to town that was set up through our hotel, it was about a 1.5 hour drive through the gorgeous mountains and forests surrounding the coast. During our time we also took a ferry to explore Positano and a bus to visit the cliffside town of Ravello. There’s obviously much more to see in the area including Capri, Atrani, Scala, and more. Depending on your interests and length of stay, of course please do your own additional research.
This blog is about our experience, recommendations, and favorites we found during our short but wonderful time in the area!
AMALFI
*images are shown in order of places/activities listed below
WHERE WE STAYED:
Amalfi Blu Retreat: This apartment-style hotel is about a 20-30 minute walk outside of the town Amalfi. It was busy season (September) while we were there, so we were looking for a cheaper option that still had beautiful views, and we definitely found it! This location was ideal: The hotel was safe, clean, and had a fabulous view of the ocean, sunsets, and surrounding towns. The hosts were wonderful and very responsive, they also welcomed us with a local bottle of sparkling wine. Just outside of the entrance was a bus stop for easy access to town, and directly down a few hundred steps from the hotel was a private beach (see below) with large cliffs and a mini beach resort. The walk from here to Amalfi was gorgeous, but the path is on the edge of the road for most of it. Very doable for people that enjoy a nice walk with views though!
BEACH RESORTS:
Il Duoglio Spiaggia is a small (but stunning) private beach located a few miles down the coast from Amalfi. Enter at this address through the gate and reception booth at the top of the cliff. We paid for a day pass and we are happy to say it was absolutely worth it! At the bottom there are rows of chairs with umbrellas, a gorgeous private beach surrounded by massive cliff faces, and a mini restaurant/bar. The staff here were incredibly welcoming and offered us numerous free drinks and were happy to help with anything we needed. You can also take private boat rides to Amalfi’s marina and back via this day pass (ask the host at the top of the cliff for more info)! Note that this beach does not have 24/7 access though so be sure to double check times if you plan to visit.
There are beaches right outside of the main town of Amalfi as well, but much more public and crowded. Also great, but a very different vibe! We really enjoyed the peaceful morning we spent at Il Duoglio Spiaggia, and the ability to have the beach to ourselves for a while. And constant access to apps and champagne :)
THE TOWN OF AMALFI:
Overall, Amalfi was such a great place to call home base. Most people are drawn to Positano because of it’s popularity, but we loved staying in Amalfi and all of the quick access to good food, activities, and all kinds of transportation to the surrounding cities. It’s a really nice centrally-located hub. Here’s a couple of the things we loved to do in town:
Duomo di Amalfi: Beautiful church in the main plaza.
Via Lorenzo D’Amalfi: This is the Main Street that runs through town, full of shops and restaurants and people watching!
There’s lots of hidden streets and unique spots to check out (especially after the big crowds leave for the day). Highly recommend just walking around town and seeing what catches your eye!
TOP FOOD RECOMMENDATIONS:
Pizzeria Donna Stella: Little rooftop terrace covered in lemon trees that serves amazing pizza and Pesto Gnocchi. We called ahead to get a reservation here!
Sea Waves Cafe: A rooftop bar on the coast! We didn’t get to go because they hosted an event but it looks like it would be such a fun spot to visit.
Pasticceria Pansa Amalfi: Quaint dessert bar to get a glass of beer/wine and people watch in the main square next to Duomo di Amalfi.
La Tramontina: Great little sandwich shop perfect for takeout lunch or dinner. I think each we each paid about 8 euros for one and they were super fresh “make your own” style sandwiches!
La Capannina (further outside of town): We only went to this spot because it was closer to our hotel, but we had a great experience! Ask to sit in their outdoor garden space with a view of the valley and mountain-top towns. It was stunning and their dessert was super tasty! Great option if you’re looking to expolore some of the smaller surrounding towns where the locals live.
RAVELLO
*images are shown in order of places/activities listed below
THE TOWN OF RAVELLO:
This is such a hidden gem of the Amalfi Coast (in comparison to the more popular spots like Positano). I would say this was one of our favorite experiences of the trip! When you walk into town you’re greeted by a massive plaza with cute shops, restaurants, and visitors. It’s lined with extremely tall trees and has 180 degree views of the vineyards and villages on the hills surrounding it. I remember being in total awe when we saw these views! You truly feel like you are on top of the world. There’s a maze of alleys that disperse from the main plaza that are also full of their own locally-owned stores and wineries.
HOW WE GOT THERE:
From Amalfi, we took a 20 minute bus ride up to Ravello for an afternoon! At the time of year we went the busses were extremely crowded, so make sure to arrive with plenty of time (both ways). There’s also an option to walk up the (I’m assuming) thousands of steps from the beach up to Ravello but - your call.
ACTIVITIES:
Villa Cimbrone: This is a historic 12th-century residence that’s lined with gardens and terraces that overlook the Mediterranean. It hugs the entire coastal side of Ravello, so be sure to stop here if you want some stunning ocean views from the top of the mountains! I would highly recommend paying the entrance fee and grabbing a beer or ice cream cone at the edge of the cliff at Il balcone di Lucille. Walking the gardens and little trails that surround the property is a great way to spend a few hours one afternoon. Highly highly recommend doing this!
Bar Caruso at Belmond Hotel: Didn’t get to stop here but it looks amazing!
Like I mentioned above, make sure to walk around all of the little alleys in this town! They each have their own character and fun energy.
POSITANO
THE TOWN OF POSITANO:
Positano is the classic image we picture when we hear “Amalfi Coast”. It’s full of luxury cars, yachts, and hotels all surrounded by green cliffs and colorful flowers. I’m happy to say it really is as beautiful as it looks in photos! I didn’t believe the hype at first, but now I completely understand why people love it here so much. This town is tucked into a tiny little valley on the coast and has thriving shops and restaurants on every street. I highly recommend just walking as much of this town as possible! It’s extremely crowded (and a very expensive spot to stay), but it’s full of so much life and great people!
HOW WE GOT THERE:
From Amalfi’s marina, we took a 30 minute ferry along the coast to Positano! We bought tickets for this the night before we planned to go and I’m very glad we didn’t wait until the morning of. The ticket guaranteed us entrance on the ferry at a specific time, but we could return to Amalfi on any ferry we wanted. On the way back we were lucky to get one of the last spots, so make sure to get to the ferries early because there are overwhelming lines to return. I absolutely loved taking the ferry over a bus/taxi, because it’s a great way to see the coastline from the ocean! You get 30 minutes to stare at the massive mountains and cliffs that make up the Amalfi coast, as well as the towns scattered in between. SO beautiful.
FOOD:
Posides Cafe: Great little breakfast cafe with only a handful of tables! Very well run, family-owned spot. We had the avocado toast and it was super good. It’s outside of the heart of Positano, so it was also a nice way to walk around and see a different/quieter part of town!
Hotel Palazzo Murat: A stunning hotel terrace in the heart of Positano! Sit in the courtyard and get a Limoncello or Aperol Spritz while surrounded by flowers and views of the mountains! The drinks were beautifully presented and the staff was very nice. They may make you get food, but we just got a side plate of fruit for roughly ten euros. We went twice because we loved the experience so much!
Casa e Bottega: Didn’t get the chance to eat here, but some friends of ours got breakfast here and loved their experience!
Note: One issue we ran into was that a lot off the restaurants with pretty views will only let you sit if you are eating a main course. We made the mistake of sitting down just for a drink and they tried to get us to buy a full meal. Just make sure to ask in advance if you are only looking to get apps or a drink somewhere!
Note: If you know what date you’re going to be here, definitely make reservations ahead of time! This town is BUSY.
ACTIVITIES:
Rent Beach Chairs: We didn’t do this, but if you’re looking for a beach day with drink service and great views, this is the town to do it in!
Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta: This is the main church and the heart of town. Really pretty location and a great spot to sit with a sandwich or coffee and people watch.
Via dei Mulini: A walking street that has a canopy of vines and flowers above the street. Lined with shops and is the entrance to the Hotel Palazzo Murat terrace!
Via Cristoforo Colombo: This is the street that heads up the mountain and overlooks the classic postcard view of Positano!
Just like Amalfi and Ravello, I recommend simply walking as much of this town as possible. There’s infinite switchbacks of streets each with their own unique vibe. There’s lots of great family-owned stores and restaurants mixed in with the luxurious high-end hotels and experiences. There are so many places to explore here!
CONCLUSION
The Amalfi Coast truly is one of the most vibrant and lively places I’ve ever visited. I hope that among all of the traffic and tourism you’re able to find the secret little pockets of these pretty towns and can soak up the Mediterranean sun while eating all of the pasta and drinking all the vino. Enjoy your trip and all of the wonderful things the Amalfi Coast has to offer!
If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to reach out!
Cheers!
